Just as Lisbon’s markets remind us of the times of our grandparents, emblematic grocery stores, such as Manteigaria Silva, take us back to the years when it was safe to play in the street until late, places where we often had snacks during endless afternoons of play.
With more than 125 years of history, we’re sure that Manteigaria Silva was that “home” and “shelter” for many Lisboners during their childhood.
Today, it’s a place for treats for adults and tourists, who, when they smell the aroma of cheeses and sausages, or codfish and other traditional Portuguese products, can’t resist going in and tasting several exclusive selections, making it an outstanding place for those looking for quality, authenticity and a piece of national gastronomic culture.
We went there, and in a visit that was supposed to last 30 minutes, we spent more than two hours chatting – and tasting good things.
History and legacy
The older ones will still have lived with Mr. José Branco in the store on Rua Dom Antão de Almada, right next to Praça da Figueira and Rossio, in a space that still retains many of the original architectural elements, inviting each customer on a journey through time.
The “only Portuguese cheese sharpener”
Often referred to as the “only Portuguese cheese tuner”, we confirmed with his son, José Branco, that although in countries like France, Italy or Spain there are dozens or hundreds of these specialists, in Portugal this has always been a very rare profession and, in this case, it is even exclusive to the founder of Manteigaria Silva.
The term “cheese tuner” refers to a person who specializes in monitoring and controlling the entire cheese ripening process, determining the exact moment of ideal consumption. Although it’s not a well-known technique in Portugal, it’s quite important abroad.
In Portugal, Mr. José Branco was the only one to carry out this activity, particularly with Serra cheeses, which we were able to taste on site: we’ve always eaten Serra cheeses, but the ones from Manteigaria Silva, made solely from Bordaleira sheep’s milk, really have something different and unique about them.
From its origins to the present day
Founded at the end of the 19th century (1890), the current designation only came about in 1922, at a time when butter was a luxury sold by weight and received directly from the Azores.
Over the years, Manteigaria Silva’s space has been expanded and adapted to requirements, without ever losing the essence of a true fine grocery store, where tradition and quality still stand out today.
If José Tabuaço Branco, when he took over the leadership of the business in 1989, bet on a renovation and careful selection of the best traditional Portuguese products, especially cod, cheeses and hams , today it is his children, José and Laura Branco, who bring more innovation, while reinforcing the commitment to having high quality products, especially from small producers.
What do we eat at Mercearia Silva?
The cheeses and sausages, as well as the cod (à la posta, whole or by-products) are the true hallmarks of this house in downtown Lisbon.
The cheeses stand out for their variety and quality, coming from various regions of the country. Among them, we found specialties such as Serra da Estrela, Nisa, Serpa and Castelo Branco cheeses, among many others, carefully honed in the store itself.
Sausages such as hams, paios and chorizos come mainly from the Alentejo and Trás-os-Montes, prepared from the best pigs and traditional producers, a real treat for those looking for authentic and different flavors.
As for cod, in this store you can buy all the parts that our faithful friend offers, from the delicious steaks to the flaps and faces, as well as the samos (or sames) and roe, which you can use to make one of these recipes.
There are also wines (lots of them) and dried fruits of Portuguese origin sold in bulk, as was done in the old days, which you can also take to one of the tables on the terrace outside this historic Lisbon establishment.
One of the pleasant surprises of our visit was discovering the range of exclusive wines, developed in partnership with winemaker Dirk Niepoort.
The Manteigaria Silva wines (red and white blends, plus a Reserva edition) are sold only in the store and stand out not only for their quality, but also for the detail of the slate labels, which can be personalized by hand with chalk, making them original and unique gifts for any special occasion.
The Lisboa Secreta experience
We were greeted warmly and immediately enveloped by the welcoming atmosphere of shelves full of cheeses and sausages: we died and went to heaven?!
We were given a taste of some of the most fantastic cheeses we’ve ever eaten in Lisbon, especially a very special Queijo da Serra, served at the right temperature and at different stages of ripening, with an intense flavor and creamy texture, accompanied by a delicious selection of sausages from the Alentejo.
We spoke (we spoke a lot) with José Branco, one of the founder’s sons, who shared his in-depth knowledge of the methods used to select and refine the cheeses, as well as the importance of the direct link with the producers.
In this very relaxed conversation on the store’s terrace, José explained to us how, from generation to generation, the commitment to quality and a unique customer experience is the secret that keeps Manteigaria Silva a national benchmark.
As well as being a landmark of Lisbon’s traditional commerce, Manteigaria Silva is a must for all lovers of Portuguese gastronomy, combining history, excellence and a service that lives up to tradition.
Tasting their cheeses and sausages is, without a doubt, discovering Lisbon through the palate, on a journey of flavors that is renewed with every visit.
Address: Rua Dom Antão de Almada 1 (next to Praça da Figueira and Rossio)
Opening hours: Monday to Saturday, from 10am to 7pm; online on the website
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