Lisbon is more like a tavern, typical on the inside, but with a touch of modernity and sophistication in the dishes that arrive at the table.
After all, we don’t remember the old taverns serving oysters, and at Taberna Meia Porta you can try some of the freshest in town… as well as many other snacks.
Inspired by the Americanized motto “make taverns great again”, Chef Fred Frank opened this gastronomic space next to Calçada do Combro, as you walk down from Chiado to São Bento , with a menu focused on fresh and local products that, according to him, should be shared with family and friends.
According to the chef on duty, who has worked in the kitchens of Claude Troisgrois’ C.T. in New York, Emmanuel Bassoleil’s Canvas and Le Tan Tan in São Paulo and, in Lisbon, he has run Quiçá and was the executive chef at Copo de Mar,
My idea is to uncomplicate flavors. I cook in such a way as to enhance the product, the recipes and the preparations. I combine what I believe to be good and I want people to be able to identify the flavors.”
An “old-fashioned” tavern
It’s great to know that the spirit of the old taverns is appreciated by the new owners of the former Floresta do Alcaide restaurant.
Inside the new Taberna Meia Porta we found a series of tables, and also a round one, for families or groups, with marble tops and the typical “tavern chairs”, which invite happy gatherings into the night, but also longer lunches, at least until 3pm, when they close the other half of the giant green-painted door.
On the walls, the century-old tiles, an inheritance from the last managers, who also left the old imperial machine and some pots and pans here, now serve as decorative elements in the new house, which is capable of accommodating 25 diners who, as soon as they enter, feel as if they are at home.
Our experience
That’s how we felt as soon as we entered Taberna Meia Porta to try some of its famous snacks.
The atmosphere is welcoming and everything we were given to taste, from the starters to the wine, was explained in complete detail, showing extreme pride in the use of fresh, local produce, which pleased us greatly.
Our experience began with a selection of starters that demonstrated the versatility and creativity of this house.
Along with a Black Pork Copita (€7.50), we tried a unique variety of pickles, very different from those we buy in jars in supermarkets.
A small saucer full of homemade pickles (€5) of all colors and shapes brought freshness and balanced acidity, preparing our palates for the richer flavors that followed, for the Oysters Vinaigrette (€11), from Aveiro or the Ria Formosa in Olhão, which stood out for their delicacy and the citrus touch of the sauce.
Next up, one of the house specialties , the kind everyone talks about, the Croquete de Sapateira (9€), and no wonder.
You know very well how much we love croquettes, and this one really is one to shout about… Oh my God, what a treat!
Even before we chose our main courses, we were treated to Chicken Gizzards (€9) and Pumpkin Rice (€8.50), both cooked to perfection and which gave us that feeling of comfort, surprising us with their softness and natural sweetness. And we’re still only on the starters!
In the main courses, the quality of all the ingredients has gone up a level. The Tuna Kebab (16€), grilled just right, was very juicy and well-seasoned, with a mustard sauce that further enhanced all the robust flavors of this fish.
As for the meat dish, our favorite (and how difficult it was to choose just one), the Pork Belly and Chickpeas (€15), was a real surprise and explosion of flavors, with the layer of crispy fat doing the house expenses, accompanied by surprising chickpeas seasoned to perfection.
But one of the best surprises was saved for last, for the divine desserts.
I chose what I choose almost every time there are desserts with chocolate, so the Chocolate Mousse with Sour Cherry (6€), which at Taberna Meia Porta combines the bitterness of the cocoa with the slight sweetness of the sour cherry; and Ringo opted for the Almond Egg Cake (6€), with an incredible cream to make the least gluttonous of gluttons drool.
But the owners of the restaurant wouldn’t let us leave without trying the Arroz Gelado e Doce (6€), which is a magnificent and surprising reinterpretation of the traditional Portuguese recipe, but with a creamy texture like we’ve never tasted before.
It’s not ice cream with a sweet rice flavor… it’s ice cream made with Arroz-Doce itself. Well, it’s not easy to explain in words, you’ll have to go and try it yourself!
To accompany our whole experience at Taberna Meia Porta, we followed the wine suggestion (they also serve by the glass), from which you can choose between three different ranges, both in taste and price, ranging from the Italian Poggio Anima (22€), through the Spanish Gomez Cruzado (37€) to the Portuguese Moreish (55€).
The experience in this modern and friendly tavern is not just about food. It also served to celebrate the combination of tradition and modernity, which are present in every detail, from the dishes to the selection of wines that harmonize perfectly with the menu.
Address: Travessa do Alcaide 22A
Opening hours: Tuesday to Saturday, from 7pm to 10pm; Fridays and Saturdays, from 12.30pm to 3.30pm
Menu and reservations: on the website or by calling 21 011 48 96