Cod, the typical Portuguese dish: how to choose and where to buy it in Lisbon

That’s right, in a Portuguese home, you eat cod for sure! Cod is the king of Portuguese cuisine and there are a thousand and one different ways to cook it.

Now that Christmas is upon us, how about taking a look at some of the best-known dishes and adapting them to your family Christmas dinner?

We’re sure you’ll find one that everyone likes, even if it’s different from last year. After all, there are 1001 recipes for cooking this delicacy, aren’t there?

The 1001 recipes

Codfish occupies a central place in the Portuguese Christmas dinner, being a symbol of tradition, family unity and cultural identity.

Especially at this time of year, it’s better known as “Bacalhau da Consoada” (Christmas cod ), and it’s a dish usually served simply: boiled and accompanied by potatoes, cabbage, eggs and drizzled with lots of good olive oil.

Its presence on the Portuguese Christmas table dates back to religious practices of the past, when the Catholic Church imposed a fast on meat on Christmas Eve, encouraging the consumption of fish. Cod, which was affordable and easy to preserve, became the ideal choice for many Portuguese families.

That’s why, on December 24th, both in Portugal and in the various emigrant communities around the world, cod continues to be the main dish at Christmas Eve.

How to choose a good cod

Cod can be cooked in a variety of ways: it can be eaten raw, of course, but also boiled, fried, roasted, sautéed, baked, au gratin, in pastries or pataniscas.

À Brás, with cream, à lagareiro, with everyone, with açorda or with rice. The list of possible recipes is enormous.

But first, we want to find out if you really know how to choose the best steaks for this year’s Christmas dinner.

So let’s start at the beginning, with the shape of the fish. There’s only one cod, but there are a whole host of “substitutes” from the same family.

Here’s the trick: the real one has a straight cut tail, three fins on the back and appears on the market in the shape of a wing.

The color, onthe other hand , has to be yellowish, like straw, and uniform. So avoid buying it if it has black spots, which indicate that it has been badly bled, or pink, which shows that it has excess moisture.

And the smell has to be pleasant, that typical cod smell and not unbearable.

The most important rule for choosing good cod is excellent drying, because the more dehydrated and free of moisture, the better!

At this stage, the best test you can do is: hold the cod by the loin, where the head has been cut off, and if it stays almost straight, it’s perfect.

If it bends, there’s too much moisture in it, in which case don’t buy it.

What to buy: deep-frozen or dry?

When it comes to buying, you’ll either find deep-frozen soaked cod or dried salted cod. Do you want to know which is better?

Both are good, because it all depends on how much time you have to dedicate to preparing the recipe.

Deep-frozen is quicker because it doesn’t need to soak, but it has less flavor.

Dry salted, which needs to be soaked for at least 24 hours, retains its flavor better.

4 places to buy cod in Lisbon

In Lisbon you can find it on sale in municipal markets, supermarkets, fishmongers and even specialized grocery stores.

1. The Mercado da Ribeira, in the Cais do Sodré area, is one such place, where as well as cod you can find other types of fish and vegetables, which are one of the best accompaniments to this delicacy at Christmas dinner;
2. Peixaria do Mercado, located in the Graça Market, is well known for the quality of the products it sells, including the wide variety of cod you can find here;
3. Supermarkets are, more often than not, the places where the most cod is sold, since here you’ll find this fish in all its varieties: fresh or frozen, as well as various brands;
4. In specialized grocery stores, such as Manteigaria Silva, Rei do Bacalhau or Pérola do Rossio, which are the best-known places selling cod in Lisbon.

As you can see, you’re now better prepared to buy this delicacy for Christmas.

But if you still don’t feel confident, we suggest you go to one of these Lisbon grocery stores, where they know everything about the king of our cuisine.

How to cook… and which recipe to choose

Now that you know how to choose the best, and where to buy it, it’ s time to cook it.

Whatever recipe you choose, this fish cooks very quickly. Curing it with salt already gives it its first natural “cooking”, then, with drying, it goes through another “cooking” process.

So pay attention to the timing, because overcooked cod becomes dry.

There’s also a little trick to the quantity: each person eats around 150g to 250g per meal.

Finally, the hardest part is choosing the dish you’re going to cook. With so many options, it’s very difficult to choose just one recipe.

But we’ve got you covered: check out our list of the best ways to eat cod below.