Forget cod! We don’t even know how that could ever be possible, with so many incredible recipes featuring this fish from the North Sea that is so beloved by the Portuguese, but this restaurant on Avenida de Roma has reinvented the classic Portuguese dish with dried skate.
There is no doubt that our kitchens—and our chefs—are becoming increasingly creative, and this reinterpretation of a typical national dish is proof of that.
On bustling Avenida de Roma, there is a restaurant, Chico Esperto, where you can still enjoy traditional recipes in a pleasant setting with excellent table service. And it was precisely there that we discovered this “bold creation”: Raia à Gomes de Sá.
Rustic flavors to whet your appetite
But we’ll get to that later! Let’s start with the appetizer, a Bean Soup with Unto (€3) that quickly piqued our curiosity, especially because of the unto, which is a type of lard used in Portuguese cuisine to add that extra punch of flavor. We loved it and just wanted to have seconds!
After this initial introduction, we focused on the space, which is quite comfortable and filled with light, featuring a main dining room with some more secluded seating (ideal for families or small groups) and, in the back, a small room large enough to host a true dinner with friends or a larger family gathering.
In conversation with one of the staff members, a true-blue Lisbon native, we clearly understood what Chico Esperto is all about: a restaurant without any frills, serving simple, traditional, and very tasty food, the result of the teamwork of 16 people who have just one goal: to bring you fond memories of typical Portuguese cuisine.
And this is clearly evident on the menu, where you’ll find dishes like Bacalhau à Brás (€16.50), Polvo à Lagareiro (€23), Açorda de Camarão (€15.50), Arroz de Pato (€18), Iscas de Cebolada com Elas (€13.50), Portuguese-style Sirloin Steak (€16), or even Cabidela Rice (chicken for €14.50; rabbit for €16.50).
The Boldness of Raia à Gomes de Sá
By now your mouth must be watering; so let’s get to what brought us to Chico Esperto: a reinvention of Bacalhau à Gomes de Sá, which is one of the best-known recipes featuring this fish.
The menu’s main attraction replaces the country’s most popular fish with an unusual alternative: Raia à Gomes de Sá, which uses dried skate instead of the usual cod.
The skate, previously dried using a traditional Portuguese method but still arriving quite moist on your plate, is grilled right in the restaurant, which gives it that slightly smoky flavor while keeping the long fillet firm.
Beyond that, there isn’t much more to add, since chef Bruno Lopes has taken care to respect the entire composition of this dish in relation to the traditional recipe: boiled potatoes accompanied by the indispensable hard-boiled egg, sautéed onions, garlic, and topped with olive powder and fresh parsley.
As soon as we put the fork (and also the knife—which you’re not supposed to do, but it happened!) in our mouths, the combination of everything resulted in a very intense and pleasurable flavor profile, with the quality of the olive oil and the cooking time of all the ingredients truly making all the difference. We’ll definitely be back!
For dessert, we couldn’t resist ordering the Chocolate Mousse (€5.50), which unfortunately turned out to be quite dense; we think it would be perfect for sharing among two or three people, but for one person—even for someone who really loves this dessert— it might be a bit “heavy.”
Useful information:
Address: Avenida de Roma 46B (Roma)
Hours: Monday through Thursday from 12 PM to 3:30 PM and from 7 PM to 11 PM; Friday, Saturday, and Sunday from 12 PM to 11 PM
Average price: €15–€35 per person
Reservations and menus: on the website
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