Everyone climbs to Pena. Almost no one climbs to Peninha. It’s located in the parish of Colares, where the mountains end and the Atlantic begins, at an elevation of 488 meters. On a clear day, the view stretches from Cabo Espichel to the Berlengas, with Cabo da Roca and Guincho down below. There’s no admission fee, no lines, and all around there’s an official trail that circles the hill in about two hours.
A mute shepherdess, a lost sheep, and a chest full of bread
The legend, as told by Parques de Sintra, dates back to the time of King João III: a shepherdess from Almoinhas Velhas, who had never spoken a word, lost a sheep on the hill. A woman returned it to her and told her to go home and call for her mother—and her voice came out. In the chest was enough bread for the entire village. At the site of the encounter, the villagers found an image of Our Lady.
The site has a longer history: in the 12th century, Pêro Pais, an ensign under D. Afonso Henriques, built a chapel here dedicated to Saint Saturninus, whose ruins still stand there. The current chapel dates from the late 17th century, the work of Friar Pedro da Conceição, funded by donations from the faithful and with the support of D. Pedro II. The complex has been designated a Property of Public Interest since 1977.
The mansion that looks like a fortress—and is set to be restored
In 1918, António Augusto Carvalho Monteiro, the millionaire from Regaleira, built a small mansion resembling a miniature castle next to the chapel. The interior of the chapel can only be seen on guided tours organized by Parques de Sintra on Sundays—one hour, €7.50, free for those under 17. The terraces and the churchyard, however, are free and well worth the trip .
And there’s a reason to go now: according to information reported by *Observador*, the president of Parques de Sintra, João Sousa Rego, announced to *Lusa* a phased restoration, with about one million euros allocated for the first phase and a call for bids by the end of the year. It begins with the chapel and will culminate in a museum complex. The Peninha you see today is about to change.
The trail: about 5 km, circular, almost entirely shaded
The PR10 SNT – Peninha trail, promoted by the Sintra City Council, starts at the sanctuary’s parking lot: the City Council estimates 4.5 km and two and a half hours, while AllTrails measures 5 km and an hour and a half. After the ruins, the trail descends through the forest to a picnic area and a trail junction leading to Anta de Adrenunes, a pile of boulders believed to have been a megalithic necropolis. Those with the stamina can continue on to Pedras Irmãs.
How to get there
By car, take the EN-247 via Colares or Malveira da Serra. There’s no bus all the way up there: Parques de Sintra recommends the 1253 bus from Sintra, which stops on Estrada do Cabo da Roca, followed by a 25-minute walk. Due to a very high risk of fire, the Sintra City Council closes the mountains and the sanctuary. And bring a jacket: it’s the windiest spot in the mountains.
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