In Paço de Arcos, right in front of the river, stands one of the newest restaurants on the waterfront, Intemporal, which we can describe as an elegant cube made of toasted yellow tiles, with a generous panoramic “window” that lets us look out over the Tagus, the 25 de Abril Bridge and Cristo Rei while we taste some of the latest gastronomic creations by a chef we’ve been following for several years, Chef Miguel Laffan.
As soon as we arrived at the address, on Avenida Marginal right opposite the EN6, for us one of the most beautiful roads in the country, which connects Lisbon to Cascais ,we didn’t even realize that the Intemporal restaurant would be this orange block, a 20th century building that once served as the Casa do Fiscal, where the fish tax was collected.
Once inside, because from the outside it’s hard to even imagine what we would find, we saw a space divided into two floors that conquers with its simplicity and sophistication, with modern lines and minimalist details that left us awestruck. But the best was yet to come!
As soon as you walk in, there’s a counter with four seats, where you can watch the magic happen live; up the stairs, it’s the 16:9 window that does the honors of the house, in a setting that allows you to frame the Tagus River, as well as other iconic places in Lisbon, always with that natural light that easily runs through the few marble tables on this floor, with capacity for 12 people.
We were also surprised by the ceiling lamps, in the shape of opaque soap bubbles that seem to melt before the real gastronomic feast begins.
But first, who is Miguel Laffan?
The Chef to win back the Michelin Star
Chef Miguel Laffan has already held one Michelin star and, with this commitment to the Intemporal restaurant, he is determined to win another.
Born in Cascais and renowned for his international career, he made a name for himself in Portuguese haute cuisine after winning his first Michelin star for the restaurant L’And Vineyards, in the Alentejo, in 2011.
With more than 25 years’ experience, having worked in leading kitchens in Portugal and France, and in other Michelin-starred restaurants, one of Portugal’s most creative chefs is known for his culinary style, which combines Asian influences with Alentejo cuisine and for valuing Portuguese traditions, favoring local ingredients and artisanal methods.
Also known for his ability to innovate and his appreciation of cooking as an art, where time, technique and emotion come together to create memorable dishes, Miguel Laffan’s latest challenge in this fine dining restaurant is to win back the coveted gastronomic star, even more so since Oeiras is not yet on the map of haute cuisine.
And from what we’ve seen from our experience, that goal will indeed come true.
12 autumnal moments
At the Intemporal restaurant, time is the guiding thread of the entire gastronomic experience, and the current autumn menu has been structured into five poetic acts: Prelude, Passage, Permanence, Delay and Eternity, in which each dish represents a different moment, with Laffan’s cuisine revealing maturity, technique and a universal and immaculate reading of flavors. Let’s do it
The Secret Lisbon experience
Prelude
The first moment opens with energy and surprise, with the Carabineiro Acarajé, unctuous and vibrant, combining the deep flavor of the crustacean with exotic palm oil and creamy vatapá, a dish that proved to be a fusion between Bahia and the Portuguese Atlantic, warm and welcoming.
This was followed by the Grilled Octopus with Pad Thai and Peanut sauce, whose firm texture contrasts with the acidic sweetness of the Thai sauce, creating an unlikely but delicious harmony.
Passage
Technique and irreverence is how the next moment can be defined. The Cabeça de Xara (or terrine) with Gamba do Algarve, citrus fruit (passion fruit) and shoyu is a journey between salty and fresh, with the more acidic perfume of the fruit enhancing the richness of the cured piece.
The Duck Steamed Dumpling with Hot Spices and Foie Gras is pure indulgence: soft, fragrant and with a moist center that melts in the mouth, evoking the comfort of the Orient with French luxury.
Permanence
The next moment, for many, will taste like the traditional Couvert, with soft and aromatic Mother Dough Bread, accompanied by Goat’s Butter and a Chestnut and Sausage Cream handmade by an 80-year-old woman from the Alentejo countryside.
It’s a moment that undoubtedly represents the human touch of Portuguese cuisine, that taste passed down through generations that invites you to slow down and share, between two fingers of conversation, before moving on to the level where everything starts to get more interesting.
Time
We are at the “heart” of the menu and in the territory of the most profound and unusual experiences. The line-caught Dourada, served with Clams and Alentejo Bacon, shows the sea and the countryside in one dish, with the maritime aromas “flooding” the table.
We then returned to Asia with the Seafood Laksa with Coconut and Noodles, an intense and aromatic soup that immersed us in oriental flavors with that creamy, spicy touch.
The turbot tagine with spices and olives revealed the chef’s Mediterranean heritage, with warm and savory notes, served on a plate created by his own mother.
And from the woods we ate the best fruits of the earth we’ve ever tasted, the Wild Mushrooms with Papad and Truffle, an earthy and deep dish, almost introspective, that left us completely surrendered and was our dish.
To close the “sea and land”, we ended with the Red Partridge with Five Spices and Celery, a dish full of technique with succulent meat and spices working in a balanced ensemble that perfumed our memory.
Eternity
Dessert promised lightness. The In the Sky with Diamonds, with lychia, pine nuts and pear, turned out to be an ethereal and fresh curtain-closer that cleansed the palate and lifted the spirit.
Pumpkin with Orange, Pecan and Lime brought warmth and comfort, like a last autumnal hug before goodbye.
The Autumn Tasting Menu consists of 12 moments and costs €120 per person (drinks not included). There are also two pairings available , both with six wines: Intemporal, for €45 per person, and Experience, for €90 per person.
This meal at Intemporal goes far beyond gastronomic pleasure, it is a true reflection on time, transformation and memory.
Chef Miguel Laffan conducts the flavors like a maestro, between the past of traditions and the future of technique. Given the boldness and cohesion of the menu, we believe that another Michelin star could soon be shining over the Tagus.
Address: Rua Vista Alegre (Paço de Arcos)
Opening hours: Tuesday to Saturday, from 12.30pm to 3pm, and from 7.30pm to 11pm
Reservations: on the website
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