There are destinations I thought I knew inside out until I decided to take a closer look at them. That was the case with Óbidos. One weekend, I decided to swap the “hustle and bustle” of the city for a getaway to the historic “Vila das Rainhas” and its surroundings.
And because I was looking for the greatest possible sense of freedom, I didn’t even choose a conventional hotel to stay the night; I explored the area in search of a place that would offer me nature and, at the same time, comfort, and found in Camping Huttopia Lagoa de Óbidos the ideal retreat that ultimately set the pace for what I was looking for: to relax and slow down from the frenzy of city life.
I left Lisbon late on a Friday afternoon and arrived at the campsite before 8 p.m., which ensured a more relaxed check-in and my first look at the fully equipped tent that would be my home for the next few days: a Trappeur Plus, which is a far cry from traditional camping, offering two bedrooms, a private bathroom, and a fully equipped kitchen. Outside, on the porch, a grill and a gas stove beckoned toward future family dinners—a luxury that, much to my regret, remained unused.
The thing is, the itinerary I had planned for this weekend required more time spent outside than inside this incredible space in the middle of nature, even though I did enjoy a little bit of everything there , as you’ll see right away.
Day 1: Disconnecting and enjoying nature by the Óbidos Lagoon
The Huttopia complex is huge and cleverly blends into the surrounding pine forest. With about 69 tents and various types of accommodations, the site guarantees enviable privacy.
After unpacking my bags, the fatigue from the trip called for a quick solution for dinner. The answer was just a few steps away, in the park’s dining area, where the manager himself prepared a flawless homemade pizza.
With my stomach satisfied, the rest of the evening was spent proving that city life dulls our reflexes: I lost five straight ping-pong matches to my son, and we didn’t get past a tie in pétanque.
Between visits to the playground and the sand sports fields, the evening ended on the tent’s porch, reading a book under the starry sky, with the sound of the sea lapping in the background.
Day 2: walls, books, and excellent cuisine
Saturday began with a simple breakfast at the campground (the service costs around €5.50 to €10 and includes bread, a croissant, butter, jams, coffee, and juice). I was ready to “tackle” the walls of the town of Óbidos.
We’ve all walked the cobblestones of Rua Direita, but taking a guided tour changes your perspective. Since 2015, UNESCO has designated Óbidos as a City of Literature, and seeing how books have breathed new life into these centuries-old stones is fascinating.
I’d highlight three must-see stops beyond the traditional craft shops, which we loved exploring (be sure to chat with the local artisans—they have so much to share):
- Livraria da Adega (Espaço Ó)
- Óbidos Organic Market
- Santiago Bookstore
And because in Óbidos anything can happen around every corner, this time fate dictated that, as I crossed the square in front of the Church of Santa Maria— the town’s main temple where, in 1441, King Afonso V married his cousin Isabel—I would witness the departure of a very peculiar military wedding, full of pomp and circumstance, revealing Óbidos at its best.
And because walking around works up an appetite, I went in search of the unmissable classics. It’s an unwritten rule: no one can leave these walls without tasting the authentic Óbidos ginja served in a chocolate cup; I chose the shop of the unmissable Ginja da Mariquinhas to ensure the perfect liquid souvenir.
Along the way, I also stopped at the Óbidos Chocolate House, simply because I have a sweet tooth, and at another spot that immediately caught my attention: Comur, the famous Portuguese cannery, whose colorful cans and commemorative editions line the walls of a store that looks like it stepped out of a movie set.
When hunger strikes… there’s plenty to choose from!
Lunch was already set at Ja!mon Ja!mon, a tapas restaurant “right next to” the city walls. Óbidos’ culinary scene can sometimes lead you into a tourist trap, but here, it’s a sure bet.
The classic Peixinhos da Horta (which, given their gigantic size, should really be called Tubarões da Horta) paved the way for some Camarões ao Guilho with a sauce that demanded a side of warm bread and some pork cheeks that melted in the mouth.
With a full stomach, the afternoon called for some activity to “work off” lunch. Back at Huttopia, I rented an electric bike and rode down the park’s inner path to Lagoa de Óbidos (a mere 5-minute walk) to explore its shores, returning in time for a dip in the park’s pool, surrounded by pine trees and an abysmal silence.
To round out the day, I made a reservation for dinner at the Bica da Lagoa restaurant. And here I’ll pause to make a serious statement: as a native of Nazaré, I grew up surrounded by fresh fish and maritime traditions, but it was here that I ate the best fish soup of my life. It’s the house specialty— thick, rich, and unforgettable. I followed that with a tuna tataki with fries, which was also very good.
For those who prefer other flavors, the menu ranges from traditional fried eels and petingas with tomato rice to pregos and pica-pau, among other delicacies.
Day 3: relaxation, adrenaline, and back to our Lisbon
Sunday morning began without much of a rush. After enjoying some of the relaxing spots at Camping Huttopia—whether among the colorful chairs in the pine forest where we took the opportunity to flip through a book, or the large activity room with a foosball table—we headed down to the lagoon for something completely new: a kitesurfing lesson.
Lagoa de Óbidos offers unparalleled conditions for wind sports, with calm waters and consistent winds. The plan was to put myself in the hands of the experienced Passaro Kite & Wing School, but unfortunately , I still haven’t had the chance to try this activity, which many say is one of the most enjoyable outdoor experiences.
I had to imagine what it would feel like to let the wind carry me along to see, from a different perspective, the vast stretch of sand where many families from the West spend their summers.
After checking out, with a very special thank you to the entire team at Camping Huttopia Lagoa de Óbidos, I hit the road for lunch in Nazaré, which brought this journey along the west coast full circle.
But with Peniche, Lourinhã, and Caldas da Rainha just a stone’s throw away, the hard part in this area isn’t finding things to do; it’s finding the time to see it all. So, that leaves the perfect excuse to come back.
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