Operating since the distant year of 1937, A Parreirinha do Chile is one of Lisbon’s oldest and most typical taverns, having been my first bifanas in Lisbon when I lived in the Arroios neighborhood.
I still remember, as if it were today, getting off the subway and smelling that delicious bifana sauce, undoubtedly one of the city’s ex-libris when it comes to street food.
The most recent story
The same thing happened to one of A Parreirinha do Chile’s current partners, Alexandre Nunes, who used to come here every day while studying, and even while making deliveries as a driver.
A little over a year ago, he decided that this place could be his, and in a conversation with José Cardoso, the long-time owner (40 years), he decided to take over the business, in partnership with José Rodrigues and Carlos Rodrigues, the owners of Bifanas do Afonso.
Since then, some adjustments have been made to the recipes of the bifanas sold in this house, so that they more closely resemble those that are considered by many to be the best bifanas in Lisbon, the Bifanas do Afonso.
But this house in Arroios has a different “secret”: the pork, which is bought every day at the butcher ‘s, is marinated in white wine, with various spices added for flavor, and then fried in a frying pan filled (really filled) with lard, bay leaf and lots of garlic, giving it that irresistible fragrance.
Nowadays, Alexandre Nunes says he sells more than 20 kilos of bifanas a day, at €3 each, always bought the same day, which sets them apart from the rest.
A daily routine
When I used to come here every day to go to school, I always found a lot of people at the door, whether it was to “kill the bug” or to have one of A Parreirinha do Chile’s delicious bifanas, always accompanied by the typical cold imperial.
The queues at the door are still constant, especially in the early hours of the day, at lunchtimes and also when it gets late, but you don’t have to wait long to be served because “they” are always coming out, steaming, just the way you want them.
The Secret Lisbon experience
I confess that I hadn’t been to this place for “too long”. My last visit made me realize that I should come here more often, since the quality, the welcome and, of course, the prices are more than inviting in a place that, despite the change in management, continues to excel in authenticity and where the taste stands out.
But there is one detail that every Lisboner appreciates even more today, and that is the fact that A Parreirinha do Chile is not on the usual tourist routes, which makes this place a pearl in the middle of the city.
As soon as we arrived, we went straight to the counter, with room for half a dozen guests at a time, where we placed our order: two bifanas (€3 each) and two drinks (from €0.80).
In less than two minutes we were served. A little spice and mustard later (I always like to put one of these sauces on each half of the steak) and the verdict is in:
There’s something different about Afonso’s Bifanas! Despite using the same recipe… they seem juicier. Could it be the fresh meat that arrives every day?”
They’re delicious, that’s for sure! We then moved on to one of the sandwiches that is also becoming well known in this house: the Bifanas and the Preguinhos Grlhados (3.50€ and 4€), well-marbled and full of garlic to accompany, surprised me. I want to go back again and again!
And what else is there to eat?
We also found other snacks to suit all tastes. One of them, which we heard a lot about, was the Courato Sandwich (€2.50); the Entremeada (€3); Panados (€3); Fillets of Hake (€3); Simple Omelette (€2); or the well-known salgados, at €1.80 each.
There’s also the soup of the day (€1.50) and drinks, including the imperial (€1.20) and glasses of wine (€0.80). For the younger ones, there are juices (cans for €1.50) and waters for €1.20.
Local, authentic and (p)reserved
Under the new management of Alexandre Nunes and the Rodrigues brothers, A Parreirinha do Chile has seen an increase in customers over the last few months, not just because the food here is so good , but because it is still one of those very special places, full of authenticity and still far from the most popular tourist routes.
For this, and much more, congratulations to the new owners… and may they remain like this forever, offering us one of the best bifanas in town.
Address: Praça do Chile 14A (Arroios)
Opening hours: Monday to Friday, from 7am to 7pm; Saturdays from 9am to 3pm
Don’t miss out! Follow us on Facebook,Instagram and now WhatsApp too!
